The Beginner's Guide to Growing Cannabis from Seed
Beginner8 min read

The Beginner's Guide to Growing Cannabis from Seed

Everything you need to know to get started — from germination to harvest. No experience required.

Why start from seed?

Seeds give you a clean genetic slate. Unlike clones, seeds carry no pests or diseases from a mother plant, and starting from seed means you get to experience the full life cycle of the plant — from that first tap root cracking through the shell to a mature, resinous plant ready for harvest. It's also the only way to grow genetics you've specifically chosen for your goals.

What you'll need

For a basic indoor setup you'll need: a grow tent (60x60cm is ideal for beginners), a LED light (200–300W for a small tent), a fan and carbon filter for air circulation and odour control, growing medium (soil is the most forgiving for beginners), pots (start in small 1L pots and transplant up), nutrients (a simple 3-part grow/bloom/micro system works well), and a pH meter and pH-up/down solution. Don't overcomplicate it — a simple setup run well beats a complex setup run poorly every time.

Germinating your seeds

The paper towel method is reliable and easy to monitor. Place your seeds between two damp (not soaking) paper towels on a plate, cover with another plate to retain moisture, and keep in a warm dark spot at around 22–25°C. Check daily. Most seeds will show a tap root within 24–72 hours. Once the tap root is 5–10mm long, carefully transfer to your growing medium, root-down, about 5mm deep. Keep the medium moist but not waterlogged and maintain warmth. Seedlings typically emerge within 2–5 days.

The vegetative stage

Once your seedling has its first set of true leaves, it enters the vegetative stage. Under an 18/6 light schedule (18 hours on, 6 off), photoperiod plants will grow vigorously without flowering. This is the time to train your plant — low-stress training (LST) by gently bending and tying branches outward creates a flat canopy that maximises light exposure. Veg for 4–8 weeks depending on how large you want your plant. Feed with a nitrogen-heavy nutrient solution during this phase.

Triggering flower

Switch your light schedule to 12/12 (12 hours on, 12 hours of uninterrupted darkness) to trigger flowering in photoperiod strains. Within 1–2 weeks you'll see pre-flowers forming — pistils (white hairs) on females, pollen sacs on males. If you're growing regular seeds, remove any males immediately to prevent pollination. Feminised seeds will all be female. Switch to a phosphorus and potassium-heavy nutrient formula during flower.

Knowing when to harvest

The most reliable way to judge harvest time is by examining the trichomes (the tiny resin glands) under a jeweller's loupe or digital microscope. Clear trichomes mean the plant isn't ready. Milky/cloudy trichomes indicate peak THC. Amber trichomes signal THC is degrading to CBN, producing a more sedative effect. Most growers aim for a mix of mostly cloudy with 10–20% amber for a balanced effect. Pistil colour is a secondary indicator — when 70–90% have turned orange/red, you're in the harvest window.

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Why train your plants?

Cannabis plants naturally grow in a Christmas tree shape — one dominant central cola with smaller side branches below. This structure means the lower branches receive far less light than the top, resulting in smaller, less developed buds. Training techniques break this apical dominance, encouraging the plant to grow multiple main colas of equal size and maximising the use of your light footprint.

Low-stress training (LST)

LST is the gentlest training method and ideal for beginners. During veg, gently bend the main stem sideways and secure it with a soft tie or plant wire attached to the pot rim. As the plant grows, continue bending and tying new growth outward to create a flat, even canopy. The plant responds by sending growth hormones to all the newly exposed bud sites, creating multiple colas. LST works on any strain and is particularly useful for autoflowers, which don't have time to recover from high-stress techniques.

Topping

Topping involves cutting off the main growing tip (apical meristem) above a node, which causes the two branches below to become the new main colas. This doubles your top colas and can be repeated — topping those two new tops creates four main colas, and so on. Top during veg when the plant has at least 4–5 nodes. Give the plant 5–7 days to recover before topping again. Avoid topping autoflowers — the recovery time eats into their limited veg window.

FIMing

FIM (short for 'F*** I Missed') is a variation of topping where you pinch or cut about 75% of the new growth tip rather than removing it entirely. This produces 3–4 new tops instead of 2, with less stress to the plant. The technique is slightly less predictable than topping but produces more branching in a single operation.

SCROG (Screen of Green)

A SCROG involves placing a horizontal screen or net above your plants and weaving branches through it as they grow. The screen holds all branches at the same height, creating a perfectly even canopy. When the screen is 70–80% full, switch to flower. SCROG works exceptionally well with LST and topping — combine all three for maximum results. It's particularly effective with stretchy sativa-dominant strains that would otherwise grow too tall.

Defoliation

Removing fan leaves during flower improves light penetration and airflow to lower bud sites. Defoliate in two rounds: once at the flip to 12/12, and again around week 3 of flower. Remove large fan leaves blocking bud sites, but don't strip the plant bare — leaves are the plant's solar panels. A light defoliation is always better than an aggressive one.

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Understanding Cannabis Genetics: What Makes a Great Strain?
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Understanding Cannabis Genetics: What Makes a Great Strain?

From landraces to modern hybrids — a plain-English guide to how cannabis genetics work and what to look for in a seed.

Landrace strains: where it all started

Landrace strains are the original, geographically isolated cannabis varieties that evolved over thousands of years in specific regions — Durban Poison from South Africa, Hindu Kush from Afghanistan, Thai from Southeast Asia. These strains are genetically stable and true-breeding, meaning seeds from a landrace will produce plants very similar to the parent. They're the building blocks of virtually every modern hybrid and are prized by breeders for their unique terpene profiles and resilience.

F1 hybrids

When two distinct, stable lines are crossed, the first generation offspring are called F1 hybrids. F1s often display 'hybrid vigour' (heterosis) — they tend to grow faster, yield more, and be more robust than either parent. However, F1 seeds are genetically diverse, meaning plants from the same pack can vary significantly in structure, aroma, and effect. This variation is actually desirable for phenotype hunters looking for exceptional individuals.

Backcrossing (Bx)

A backcross involves crossing an F1 hybrid back to one of its parent lines to reinforce specific traits. A Bx1 is the first backcross, Bx2 the second, and so on. Each backcross increases the genetic contribution of the parent line, stabilising the traits you want to preserve. You'll see this notation in our catalogue — Durban Poison Bx2, for example, has been backcrossed twice to the original Durban Poison, preserving its distinctive sativa character while improving stability.

Regular vs feminised vs autoflower

Regular seeds produce roughly 50% male and 50% female plants. They're preferred by breeders because males are needed for pollen. Feminised seeds are produced by stressing a female plant to produce pollen, then using that pollen to fertilise another female — the resulting seeds carry only female genetics. Autoflowering seeds contain genetics from Cannabis ruderalis, a subspecies that flowers based on age rather than light cycle. Autos are faster (seed to harvest in 70–90 days) and more compact, making them ideal for small spaces or outdoor grows with short summers.

What to look for in a seed

A healthy, viable seed is dark brown or grey with a hard shell and a waxy sheen. Tiger-stripe patterns are common and a good sign. Avoid pale, green, or white seeds — these are immature and unlikely to germinate well. Small cracks or damage to the shell can prevent germination. Seeds should feel firm when gently squeezed between thumb and forefinger — a seed that crushes easily is not viable. Store seeds in a cool, dark, dry place (ideally in an airtight container in the fridge) to preserve viability for years.

Phenotype hunting

Even within a single pack of seeds, individual plants (phenotypes) can vary in structure, aroma, potency, and yield. Phenotype hunting is the process of growing out multiple plants from the same cross and selecting the best individual for cloning or further breeding. It's time-consuming but essential for finding exceptional expressions. When we release a strain, we've already done extensive phenotype hunting — but growing out a pack yourself is the best way to find the pheno that suits your specific goals.

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Common Cannabis Growing Problems and How to Fix Them
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Common Cannabis Growing Problems and How to Fix Them

Yellow leaves, slow growth, burnt tips — diagnose and fix the most common issues home growers face.

Yellowing leaves

Yellowing is one of the most common issues and has several causes. Nitrogen deficiency starts with lower leaves yellowing and progresses upward — increase nitrogen in your feed. Overwatering causes general yellowing with drooping leaves and soggy soil — let the medium dry out more between waterings. pH imbalance locks out nutrients even when they're present in the soil — check and correct your pH (6.0–7.0 for soil, 5.5–6.5 for hydro). Natural senescence (lower leaves yellowing late in flower) is normal and not a cause for concern.

Nutrient burn

Brown, crispy tips on leaves are the classic sign of nutrient burn — you're feeding too much. Flush the medium with plain pH-adjusted water and reduce your nutrient concentration by 25–50%. Nutrient burn is more common with synthetic nutrients than organic. Prevention is better than cure: always start at half the recommended dose and increase gradually based on how the plant responds.

Overwatering

Overwatering is the number one killer of cannabis plants, especially for beginners. Symptoms include drooping leaves that feel firm (not limp like underwatering), slow growth, and yellowing. The fix is simple: water less frequently. The correct watering frequency depends on pot size, plant size, and environment, but a reliable method is the 'lift test' — lift the pot when dry and when wet to learn the weight difference, then water only when it feels light. Always ensure your pots have drainage holes.

Pests: spider mites, fungus gnats, and aphids

Spider mites leave tiny white dots on leaves and fine webbing under them — treat with neem oil spray or predatory mites. Fungus gnats are small flies whose larvae damage roots — let the top inch of soil dry out completely between waterings and use yellow sticky traps. Aphids cluster on new growth and under leaves — neem oil, insecticidal soap, or ladybirds (outdoors) are effective. Prevention is key: keep your grow space clean, inspect new plants before introducing them, and maintain good airflow.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew appears as white, powdery spots on leaves and stems. It thrives in high humidity with poor airflow. Remove affected leaves immediately and treat with a diluted hydrogen peroxide spray (3% H2O2 diluted 1:10 with water) or a potassium bicarbonate solution. Improve airflow and reduce humidity below 50% in flower. Prevention: maintain good air circulation, avoid overcrowding plants, and keep humidity in check.

Slow or stunted growth

Slow growth can result from several factors: root-bound plants (transplant to a larger pot), cold temperatures (keep above 18°C), insufficient light (check your DLI — daily light integral), overwatering, or pH imbalance. Check each factor systematically rather than changing multiple things at once. The most common cause in small tents is insufficient light — a 200W LED in a 60x60cm tent is the minimum; 300W+ is better.

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